Estancia Dos Talas, Dolores, Argentina

You don't have to drive too far from Buenos Aires to hit the Pampas. Head south and, within an hour, views of the cramped city slums are replaced by immense, panoramic vistas of verdant grassland. It's an extra-large landscape of Outback proportions, a serene contrast to the sophisticated bustle of the capital.

Dos Talas, a working ranch run by co-owners Sara and Luis de Elizalde, is about halfway between Buenos Aires and the seaside resort of Mar del Plata. It's a perfect retreat for tourists in search of a taste of the gaucho lifestyle. The centrepiece of the estate is its 19th century house—faded, somewhat shabby, but full of character and old-world charm. The most impressive bedroom has a wide terrace that catches the best of the morning sun, while the whole house gleams a brilliant white against the lush greenery of the gardens.

You can ride one of 10 horses around the grounds, or canter, gaucho-style, across the seemingly endless Pampas with only Luis's fine stock of cattle, plus the odd armadillo, for company. Out here, the sky dominates the scene: it's a wonderful place to ride at sunset.

Lunch is always a big deal. You can smell the scent of slowly charring meat from about noon, when Luis slaps the first of several steaks onto his hand-built barbecue. A good asado lunch is chiefly about timing. The most suitable cut for barbecuing, a rump fillet from the hind leg, known as Corazón de Cuadril, needs a good hour high above the embers before it is considered ready to eat. All Dos Talas's beef is butchered and hung on site. The obvious affection Luis holds for his cattle is reflected in the way he treats the meat. Out here, patience is everything.