Villa Amista Byblos Art, Valpolicella 

Most people are familiar with the warnings about judging books by their covers. But when it comes to hotels, there's nothing quite like the reception to give you a sense of what the rest of the hotel has to offer. A bank of expressionless morons behind a high counter tapping away at computers is never a great portent. So, it's no surprise that the Villa Amista, Byblos Art takes its reception seriously. Or, not so seriously.

The room is a huge, classical entrance hall and pulls off a tricky blend of old Italian villa and achingly hip modern art gallery. The art on display in the entrance hall alone includes work by Anish Kapoor and a stunning series of photographs by Vanessa Beecroft, cleverly displayed to feel like frescos. There is also a massive Venetian chandelier and numerous examples of the sort of chairs that get furniture buffs very excited. It's all part of the private collection of the owner, Dino Facchini. And wandering through the hotel, with its relentless mix of ancient and modern styles, you occasionally get the feeling you're in the middle of someone else's private joke. Where it works—and that depends on your taste—this juxtaposition (for it's pretentious enough to warrant use of the J word) creates an imaginative and stimulating environment. With just 60 rooms and suites, it's small enough to maintain the feel of a large private house and combined with a small, but specialist spa area and a great outdoor swimming pool, this is the perfect place to explore the theatrical city of Verona and the surrounding Valpolicella region.