Been to Bilbao? Bored of Barcelona? Find out why the Ukrainian capital is being tipped as a top cultural destination of 2012
1. It's undiscovered
Compared with other cities previously hidden behind the Iron Curtain, UK travellers have largely bypassed Kiev. Next year, Ukraine's co-hosting of Euro 2012 is expected to change all that. An architectural mix of splendour, Soviet severity and post-perestroika prosperity provides a backdrop to a fascinating city – while the Cyrillic signage and dearth of British travellers make it easy to believe you've left the well-trodden tourist trail far behind.
2. The art explosion
With numerous galleries including the Museum of Russian Art and the Pinchuk Centre, Kiev is a city that wears its art on its sleeve. The new jewel in the crown is the recently opened Mystetskyi Arsenal, a vast 18th century munitions store undergoing a Tate Modern-style transformation. Soviet rule only allowed state-approved art, so Ukrainian independence prompted a creative wave among artists as more than 70 years of pent-up expression was released. Next May the Mystetskyi celebrates its first Biennale – The Best of Times, The Worst of Times: Rebirth and Apocalypse in Contemporary Art – aiming to turn Kiev into a city for art lovers on a par with Amsterdam, Barcelona and Bilbao.
3. The history
Legend claims Kiev was founded in the fifth century and successive invasions, liberations and revolts have made its history one of the most turbulent in Europe. The city charts this with more museums than you can shake an audio guide at, from the expected – the Museum of Science and Natural History – to the bizarre, Museum of Sewage anyone? And despite what you might expect for a country that became an independent state 21 years ago, many symbols of Soviet times survive. Most striking is the 100m high Statue of the Mother Motherland, which surveys the city at the Museum of the Great Patriotic War.
4. The food
Cabbage dumplings, beetroot soup and pig fat may not sound that appetising but Ukrainian cuisine will surprise you. Spotykach restaurant has a great atmosphere and folk musicians, as does O'Panas (www.opanas.com.ua/en/) with its thatched roof, watermill and a tree growing in the middle.
5. The music
Missed them at Wembley? Catch them in Kiev. From Bryan Ferry and Britney, to Elton John and Sting – some of the biggest names in music have added Kiev to their tours. Plus, the city plays host to renowned orchestras, and opera and ballet companies.
6. Did we mention the football?
Kiev and three other Ukrainian cities will share the group games of Euro 2012 with Poland, and the final takes place at Kiev's Olimpiyskiy Stadium on 1 July. In readiness, the venue is undergoing a huge regeneration including a new roof.
7. It's good for the soul…
Even the non-spiritual will be dumbstruck by the icons, incense and onion domes of Kiev's incredible Orthodox churches and monasteries. At Pechersk Lavra, a Unesco world heritage site, take a candle and join the pilgrims shuffling their way through the labyrinth of catacombs past glass coffins of long-dead monks in richly embroidered vestments. And don't miss the dazzling
St Sophia Cathedral and St Michael's Golden-Domed Monastery – if you time it right you may even hear the monks' beautiful singing.
8. … and it's easy to get around
With so many major sites within walking distance Kiev is great to explore on foot but, just as you'd expect from a city hosting a major sports event, the infrastructure has been greatly improved. There's a good network of buses and trams plus an easy-to-use, three-line metro. Some of the ornately decorated stations are attractions in themselves.
9. Kiev is an outdoors city
In need of fresh air? Stroll among the chess players of Taras Shevchenko Park or explore the city's two botanical gardens. The interlinking parks of the Central Recreation Area stretch for miles along the bank of the river Dnipro. Take the funicular up Volodymyr's Hill for views over the river and lower town, and dodge the rollerbladers among the fountains and formal gardens of Mariinsky Park next to the parliament building. Or cross the footbridge over the Dnipro to Trukhanov Ostrov island, which even has beaches.
10. Don't forget the shops
From flea markets and traditional crafts (a Matryoshka doll is a must-have souvenir) to high-street chains, exclusive malls and department stores, there's plenty to keep shoppers happy. The main shopping street is Khreschatyk while the Globus centre beneath Independence Square is also worth a look. Head to the Mandarin Plaza for designer stuff. Or, for a bohemian feel, Andreevsky Spusk has cafés, art galleries and stalls spilling down to the river.
Nick Chalmers
FACT FILE
Getting there Direct flights to Kiev operate via British Airways, Aerosvit Airlines and Ukraine International to Boryspil international airport. Or book through WEXAS at www.iod.com/travel (020 7838 5989).
We stayed at the InterContinental Kiev. Visit www.intercontinental.com.
For more information visit www.traveltoukraine.org or www.kiev.info