Up close and personal

Richard Cree investigates the boom in wet shaves and gets a lesson in how to shave properly

The average man shaves an estimated 20,000 times in his life. And yet no one teaches us how to do it. Perhaps it's not surprising that—despite shaving firms selling razors with more blades than ever for "the closest shave" everytime—there are so many badly shaved men around. Shaving rash and in-grown hairs abound. It's also one of the reasons for the current rise in popularity of the wet shave.

Olivier Bonnefoy, founder of Mayfair men's grooming emporium Gentlemen's Tonic, says that a visit to one of his expert barbers can be the lesson in shaving techniques very few people get. "We're not taught the birds and bees of shaving," he says. "We pick up our Dad's old razor and off we go. Most people don't do the basics right. From an early age we are taught how to brush our teeth properly, but no one bothers to explain how to shave."

Just down the road from the chill-out music and modern interiors of Gentlemen's Tonic is the more traditional Geo F Trumper, established over 130 years ago. The interior may be antique and the mood more sombre, but the message is the same. Indeed, so seriously does Trumper's take shaving that it has established a School of Shaving. As barber Shane O'Neill explains: "We teach youngsters how to use their razor. If you get taught properly at the start, you save a lifetime of bad shaves. We also teach others how to shave using a cut-throat razor."

A shave at the barber's used to be an essential part of everyone's day and for an increasing number it is becoming so once again. But for Bob Ager, executive chairman of male pampering megastore Wholeman, the motivation for getting a shave is different today. Ager set up his store with two special shaving stations ready for customers walking in off London's Oxford Street. But it hasn't worked out to plan.

"We installed these marvellous shaving chairs, but they are hardly used. Most of our shaves are done as add-ons to other, broader treatments in the spa area. Guys aren't using us for a functional shave, but for a self-indulgent experience. They might be stressed or tired and they think they deserve a couple of hours in a spa."

Ager says men see spa treatments differently now: "It's no longer a once in a lifetime experience taking up a whole weekend. They walk in for a treatment when they want it, which is how men shop."

One thing's for certain, once you've had a decent wet shave, you soon want to go back for more.

Seven steps to shaving heaven

Rather than part of the daily grind, why not turn shaving into a mini morning pamper?

1. Try and bath or shower just before shaving. It softens the bristles and opens the pores, making for a smoother shave. A hot, wet flannel can achieve the same effect.

2. A good pre-shave oil or face wash will help prepare your face for the shave.

3. Use a sharp blade and a good quality shaving cream.

4. Hold your skin taut and if possible run the blade in the opposite direction to your hair growth.

5. Keep relaxed and take your time. Try and turn shaving into an enjoyable ritual rather than a daily chore.

6. Use cold water—or a cold flannel—to close your pores after shaving.

7. Using a high-quality moisturiser, even on days you don’t shave, will help reduce shaving rash and keep your beard softer and easier to shave.

Where to go:

Gentlemen's Tonic
www.gentlemenstonic.com
Classy Mayfair retreat, complete with AV entertainment system. Six product ranges mean it is able to cater to your skin's needs. Cost £30.

Wholeman
www.wholeman.co.uk
The male grooming megastore. A wetshave is often just part of the fun, with everything from vitamins to massages available. Cost £35.

Murdock London
www.murdocklondon.com
The City meets trendy Hoxton at this barber's shop. The Santa Maria Novella Wet Shave is billed as "a luxury men's facial". Cost £38.50.

Geo F Trumper
www.trumpers.com
With wood-panelled cubicles, Trumper's offers traditon and quality. The School of Shaving teaches you to shave. But why not get them to do it? Cost £30.

Truefitt & Hill
www.truefittandhill.co.uk
Truefitt & Hill's visitors' book reads like a Who's Who of London society for 200 years. Cost £35.

Pall Mall Barbers
www.pallmallbarbers.com
Friendly, local and traditional, the classic everyday barber shop. The Turkish barber has been shaving for years. Cost £15.

Dandy Browns
www.dandybrowns.com
This Leeds-based salon for men offers the "ultimate shave", which ends with a head massage, for £20. The express shave is just £12.

International Barbers
0131 554 7222
"A taste of Turkey in Leith", International Barbers offers a full wet shave, complete with hot towels and head massage for £7.