Patterson's, London W1

Dinner for two, without wine, £100

Tucked away in a Mayfair side street is a gem of London's restaurant scene. The modest exterior of family-run Patterson's belies a chic, tastefully lit interior where tables are generously spaced for discreet dining.

Chef patron Raymond Patterson has been immersed in the world of food from an upbringing in Scotland, where his father was a trawler skipper and he worked in a fish business, a market garden and a butcher's shop. With head chef Fred Stanton, he brings a love of seasonal ingredients to an imaginative, modern European menu, which has innovative twists on classic French fare.

Although well-executed fish dishes dominate starters, the real star is rabbit in a wine ragout with peaches and wild mountain thyme. Among the mains champagne-glazed turbot with asparagus and langoustine tempura demonstrates flair and fluency, plus a knack for blending disparate flavours deliciously, while halibut accompanied by mushroom risotto is simply stunning.

For dessert, summer pudding and tarragon panacotta both pack a punch. French wines are plentiful and you'll spot excellent examples under £30. With service often a letdown in many smart London dining rooms, it's a joy to watch waiting staff here—polite, attentive but never intrusive. A much-loved lunch venue for businesspeople, Patterson's at night has a wider mix, with family gatherings, romantic couples and well-heeled tourists in the know. It offers refined cuisine in an elegant setting at prices that won't break the bank.

Robert Sly