Hibiscus, London WC2

Three-course lunch, with glass of wine, £38

When Claude and Claire Bosi closed their two-Michelin-star restaurant in Ludlow in 2007 and brought it to London, there were more than a few critics eager to point out that what works in the provinces wouldn't cut the French mustard in London. Two years on and the hard-working pair have proved the critics wrong. There is nothing remotely provincial about Hibiscus.

At lunch the quiet, elegant and comfortable wood-panelled dining room excels. There is a polite, low-key buzz, a collective murmuring that allows diners to enjoy the privacy of their own conversation. Most murmurs come from fellow diners appreciating the food, which belies its pricing (£38 for three courses, a glass of wine, coffee and petit fours) and offers up clever and delicately balanced flavours.

My tablemate tucked into a lobster and scallop ravioli, with pickled vegetables and coconut sauce, and was rendered almost speechless—quite an achievement for a PR man. By the main course he was practically whimpering with delight.

Bosi strikes the right balance in playing with interesting ingredients while leaving others to speak for themselves. He knows when to stop interfering. And yet somehow the lunch all fitted together, with every dish having a distinctive Bosi touch. None of the plates were huge, but by the time the final mouthful of dark chocolate tart with white miso ice cream and yuzu sauce had gone there was just room for coffee and fabulous petit fours. If this is provincial cooking, you can send me to the provinces any day.

Richard Cree