108 Marylebone Lane, London W1

Dinner for two, excluding wine, £75

I didn't realise 108 Marylebone Lane was part of the Marylebone Hotel until I left the restaurant to visit the toilet, but I have to admit it was no great surprise. There is something very hotel-like about the gigantic room, divided into a large bar area and the more intimate brasserie, which is all slick design, soft colours and designer lighting. They like to keep quiet that the restaurant is part of the hotel, quite why I'm not sure, as restaurants in London hotels generally have a great reputation.

Marylebone Village has good restaurants and independent shops, and they make the most of it here by using produce sourced from local shops, so the sausages come from Biggles, the meat from the Ginger Pig and cheese from La Fromagerie. Even the flowers are locally sourced.

Of the starters, the Tuscan meat board stood out: Parma ham and Tuscan salami served with cornichons and celeriac remoulade combined perfectly with the selection of fresh white and sourdough bread on the table. Among the mains the lemon sole goujons are a mainstay on the otherwise changing dinner menu, and they lived up to expectation; the accompanying chips were near perfect. Another main—roast cod—came with a tasty chorizo and chickpea stew, fitting the modern European billing. Opinion was split on desserts: I dined with a cheesecake connoisseur who loved the simple vanilla flavour here, but the lack of a chocolate option on the menu was a let-down for me. The lunch menu is great value at £12.50, but even at full price this restaurant is worth a visit.

Tina Nielsen