Tapestry at the Bailiffscourt Hotel & Spa,
Climping, West Sussex

£45.50 for four courses, excluding wine

There are myriad reasons why chefs should—and many do—use locally sourced produce in their restaurants. Not only does food taste better when it hasn't been frozen and transported across the country, but it is also imperative to support local businesses.

This is the thinking of Martin Hadden, group executive chef of Historic Sussex Hotels, which consists of three countryside hotels that proudly champion local producers.

Tapestry features plenty of locally sourced food on its usual menus, but this particular night was dedicated to a Celebration of Sussex, with everything traceable to local businesses, including the wine, which came from the nearby Ridgeview Estate and Bookers Vineyard.

A sensational crab and custard tart paired with a more than adequate Pinot Gris got things started. Roast best end of lamb served alongside a shepherd's pie would have been completed with a healthy serving of fresh vegetables—surely in abundance in the area—but instead it came with a small fussy scoop of spinach mousse, but no complaints about the meat, which was superb. A generous selection of local cheeses, followed by Sussex Pond pudding, left the dining room content, and very full. Potential diners are advised to take a room for the night to top a superb culinary experience.

Tina Nielsen