Bingham hotel and restaurant, Richmond, Surrey

Right on the river, Richmond's Bingham hotel and restaurant is perfect for a late summer's evening. A spring renovation has given this grand Georgian townhouse the biscuits and cream look: soft and subtle shades, with the odd chandelier providing the sparkle. At times chef Shay Cooper's ambition needs checking: a starter of scallops is a little crowded out by baked cherries and peanut sauce. Much better is the lemon sole: crisp and moreish in its chicken jus. No modern British menu would be complete without the ubiquitous pork belly. Here it is a twist-free success, although the accompanying loin is pronounced "a little pink". Stick around for the cheese if you can: an Anglo-French selection, beefed up by a wonderful onion chutney.