One-O-One, London SW1

When head chef Pascal Proyart reopened this fish restaurant in London’s Knightsbridge he redesigned the menu as much as the interior. Proyart has jumped on the tapas bandwagon. Diners are advised to order a starter, a middle course and a main course each from his “petit plats” concept, though hungrier guests might want an extra course as well. Servings are modest, but delicious. Outstanding dishes include tender chunks of king red crab with ginger and chilli and the confit of Norwegian ham with pea velouté and Joselito ham. Finish with the chocolate pudding and walk off the calories in nearby Hyde Park or on a shopping trip to Harrods down the road. A set menu, with the option of two to four courses, is also available for lunch.