The Burlington, Bolton Abbey, North Yorkshire

Awards aren't everything, but when a restaurant manages to combine ambitious food, gorgeous surroundings, exemplary service and a scary wine list, all that's really left is to see how many certificates fit above the fireplace.

The Burlington has its fair share, plus a Michelin star for executive head chef Michael Wignall. His nine-course taster menu features a number of dishes to challenge the stuffiest Yorkshire traditionalists (lamb's tongue and fricassee of frog's legs spring to mind), but the wine list is perhaps the biggest draw, made up of over 2,000 bins and up to 80 house wines. Yum.