Parlez Vous Franglais?

At his latest restaurant, Rhodes W1, Gary Rhodes has come over all trans-channel, offering a mix of French and British traditions. As Tina Nielsen discovers, the result is something of a star turn

Gary Rhodes is heading firmly in a new direction. The celebrated British chef opened Rhodes W1 at the Cumberland Hotel in London's West End in May this year and his intention is clear: he wants to take this new establishment further than his previous restaurants.

The plush dining room, exclusively designed by Kelly Hoppen—her first foray into restaurant design—gives the impression that rather than dining within a major hotel, you are actually in a private room. Bold chandeliers featuring glittering Swarovski crystals dominate the 42-seat room, where deep purple and black velvet complement the beige rounded walls.

Diners can choose between an a la carte menu and a menu of smaller tasting dishes, both of which offer more proof of the change in Mr Rhodes. Where formerly Rhodes cooked British dishes with British ingredients, this time he has thrown his passion for French food into the mix. French classics are cooked with a British twist and, where possible, still using British ingredients.

Thus fillet of beef is served with a braised faggot and a duck main course is British produce served in a French manner—the duck carved at the table and the legs taken back to the kitchen for further roasting while diners enjoy the breasts.

His suckling pig ravioli with Bramley apple puree is rapidly reaching near-legendary status and it lives up to its hype, bursting with tasty shredded pork. Warm scallops and langoustines and a mountain of lush shellfish complete the perfect set of starters. For mains a fleshy poached Cornish lobster is accompanied by summer vegetables and lobster bisque, while a superb red mullet comes with smooth creamy mashed potatoes and brown shrimps.

Choosing a pudding from the tempting menu is agonising, but we managed to pick definite winners. The caramel chocolate mousse millefeuille is chocolate heaven, while the dark chocolate and orange tartlet is a great alternative for those who like the sweetness slightly tempered. I am no lover of cheese, but the well stocked trolley was heavily loaded with a decent mix of French and British cheeses.

Service was ok, although more staff might come in handy—a flaw made even more apparent in such an intimate dining room. Of course, in restaurant terms this is still relatively early days. One upside of this lack of bodies was a very relaxed atmosphere. This place is not as formal as you might expect from the room and nowhere near as stuffy as many of London's other big-name establishments.

But make no mistake this is a great example of fine dining. And at £45 a head, the three-course meal offers good value for money and is surely one of the best dinner deals available in London at the moment. Rhodes is hoping that the Michelin inspectors will see his high ambitions reflected in the quality and reward him accordingly. This diner, at least, thinks the star chasing is wholly justified.