St Alban, Lower Regent Street, London

It's funny how much you can tell about a restaurant from its entrance. At St Alban, the latest restaurant from ex-Ivy folks Jeremy King and Chris Corbin, the chunky doors set the tone (and keep the noise of Lower Regent Street out). And this feeling of discretion and quality continues into the main dining room, despite an interior that appears to be a throwback to a 1960s airport lounge—curved wooden benches and bright fabrics. The food starts well with olives and bread too good to pass up. And the starter of asparagus and grilled artichoke was succulent and gorgeously fresh. But the mains occasionally miss a beat (a mushroom risotto was particularly flabby and lifeless). But pick the right option and you should be fine. A decent wine list (including several by the glass) and excellent service make for a pleasant, if pricey, lunch.