Southern comfort

Jasper Morris, buying director at Berry Bros & Rudd, sings the praises of some diverse, sophisticated and smooth Latin numbers

Without undermining the efforts of countries such as Uruguay and Brazil, the best South American wines generally come from Chile and Argentina.

Separated geographically by the Andes and commercially by levels of domestic consumption (significant in Argentina, almost non-existent in Chile), both countries are blessed with kind climates and superb vineyards.

From the cooler coastal slopes of Casablanca in Chile to the plain of Mendoza in Argentina, South America has progressed from just Chardonnay, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, to its own vinous canon—Malbec and the indigenous Carmenère are now key grape varieties. Enclaves of superb terroir, such as Apalta in Chile, challenge the quality of the best French names.

Alongside such big brands as Concho Y Toro, it is pleasing to report this great diversity, with all the wines sharing a purity of flavour that can be beguiling.

FRIENDS FROM THE SOUTH

Berrys’ Chilean Sauvignon Blanc, Concha Y Toro, Chile £5.95
Ignacio Recabarren has worked his magic at the Concha y Toro estate, a great source of Sauvignon Blanc. Packed with citrus notes, this is a divine example of Chile’s potential.

2005 Santa Celina Pinot Gris, J&F Lurton, Mendoza, Argentina £6.25
A huge success for the Lurton brothers who have been in business since 1992, this wine is spicy, smoky, fragrant and rich; an elegant alternative to its forbears in Alsace.

2004 Pulenta Estate, Malbec, Mendoza, Argentina £12.25
An intense fruit character, where the plum, cherry, vanilla, and the sweetness of the wood blend perfectly together. The ripe tannins give the wine balance and a persistent finish.

2004 Don Victor, Carmenère Gran Reserva, William Fevre, Maipo Valley, Chile £10.95
Intense in colour, on the nose is a subtle mix of blackcurrant and green pepper, with smoky and minty notes. It is full bodied, with a very rich tannic structure.

2003 Neyen, Apalta, Colchagua Valley, Chile £23.95
Made by Patrick Valette from ungrafted Carmenère vines (70%) and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes, this wine, matured for 14 months in French oak, has a classy tannic structure and genuine complexity.