France's hidden gems

Hugo Rose has discovered a French wine that not even the French know much about

If de Gaulle was right to be concerned about the number of different cheeses produced in France, then the number of wines should also be worrying. Every corner of the country seems to have its local labels, its own grape varieties and appellations. These can be surprisingly pleasant as holiday plonk but can be less endearing when tasted in a different environment. On a damp day in Blighty, for example.

One that passes the "bring it home" test is Marcillac, a wine that shares its name with its nearest airport, that of Rodez in deepest France. Rodez itself is a bustling market town, now with a growing population of British ex-pats and second-homers. The region is not well travelled and is little known outside the country, its principal attractions are sheep (for Roquefort cheese), Laguiole steak knives and the Millau Viaduct, designed by Sir Norman Foster.

I first came across Marcillac in a wine shop in Le Touquet. The fact that the patron had no idea from which part of France it came got me interested. I served it with the local Maroilles cheese and it came up trumps. More recently, I have come across both a rosé and an oak-aged version. All balance an immediate gluggability with a degree of almost Burgundian sophistication.

Marcillac is made largely from the Fer grape, the iron in its name supposedly reflecting its sturdy vines. Fer is planted across the south west of France, making an appearance in both Gaillac and Madiran, though it is only in Marcillac that it takes centre stage. Here its redcurrant gloss serves well to introduce the wine to sceptical palates.

Le Touquet apart, you will struggle to find the wine on sale in France beyond the confines of Rodez. Fortunately, it is seen from time to time in the UK, listed by enterprising wine merchants who perhaps have experienced the same lightbulb moment as me. Look out for Domaine du Cros or the wines of Domaine Laurens. At around £7.50 Marcillac's not expensive and would be a perfect fit with game.