Spain's new contenders

A new breed of growers is turning Spain's Terra Alta into a rival for Rioja, says Hugo Rose

Until the death of Franco, there was only one road from the Mediterranean coast to the Terra Alta in the south of Catalonia. This was little more than a mountain track and the region was effectively cut off from the modern world. Recently, a spanking new carriageway has been carved into the hills, though you can still find yourself in something of a time warp. On my last trip, I visited a village where the morning's news was being broadcast at high volume via street-mounted loudspeakers.

Terra Alta is a near-circular sculpted plateau at, as the name suggests, a high altitude—some 400m. It offers a rugged beauty, frequently captured in Picasso paintings. In certain respects, the region resembles the Rhône Valley, with its sun-burnt scenery, rocky soils and summer heat. The key grape varieties, Garnacha blanca and Garnacha tinto were, in fact, exported to the southern Rhône in the 19th century to form the core of the wines of Châteauneuf-du-Pape and Gigondas. With higher altitude, these grapes have historically produced a more elemental style, demonstrably beefier and with an elevated alcohol. Refined they were not. But because of a good natural acidity, the wines always kept well—a sure sign of potential.

The region's wine sector suffered neglect during most of the 20th century, but recently new shoots have emerged. The grape varieties are largely unchanged, but with a new breed of growers, careful winemaking, investment in stainless steel and barrels, and exposure to a wider market, the region is beginning to reveal its talents. Prices are eminently reasonable and the wines are well worth seeking out. A first-rate example from the current Gandesa co-operative is the 2005 Altos del Conde Garnacha (£69.99 for 12 from www.laithwaites.co.uk). It packs a substantial 14.5 per cent punch. Look out, too, for the wines of Bàrbara Forés, whose white 2006 El Quintà (£11.75 per bottle plus delivery, direct from the shipper Georges Barbier, 020 8852 5801), is a superb, sumptuous barrel-fermented Garnacha blanco.