The sampler

Jamie Hutchinson goes in search of better bubbly at an affordable price

We'd all like to drink more champagne. The problem with great champagne is that it is expensive. So, what's the solution? You could spend £4.99 on a bottle of Woolworth's own-label champagne. While that won't break the bank, it isn't going to be the most enjoyable experience.

The real solution is to think small. For centuries, the big houses have bought grapes from small growers and made their brands and their fortunes based on the quality of the wines produced. In the last few years some of these growers have taken the big step of investing in a small winery and making some champagne themselves. These are commonly called grower champagnes and are easily spotted by having the initials RM on the label rather than NM (Recoltant rather than Negociant).

These champagnes have the definite advantages of being grown in a single identifiable site, often from grand cru vineyards, and costing much less than the "grand marques" that often seem to charge you more for packaging and image than actual quality.

Prices for great quality RM Champagnes range from the high teens through to about £50. The only real challenge is actually finding them. Independent wine merchants are the best source, although being one, I suppose I would say that.

The most famous name is Jacques Selosse from Avize, but Selosse's prices are starting to climb these days, so you should look out for equally high-quality wines from names such as Lancelot Royet in Cramant (check out the Reserve RR Grand Cru Blanc de Blanc at £27), Herbert Beaufort in Bouzy (its Rosé at £25 is great value), and, particularly, Varnier Fanniere in Avize, which makes some absolutely stunning Blanc de Blancs at prices that would make Krug blush (the Cuvee St Denis Grand Cru Blanc de Blanc is £50).

Once you have found one of these gems, you can chant Antoine de Caune's immortal words: "Des bulles, encore des bulles, et toujours des bulles", which sounds like a London football chant when translated: "The bubbles, again the bubbles, always the bubbles".