The Sampler

Jamie Hutchinson explores the ups and downs of Spain's most famous wine region

In my experience, Rioja is unique, not in its grapes, climate or the attitude of its winemakers, but in its ability to confuse.

As with many people, Rioja was my starting point in appreciating red wine. I loved the fact that at almost any price I could get an easy going, medium-bodied wine with a powerful vanilla oakiness and spicy personality. Being young and poor, I drank loads of it. Until one day I couldn't face any more.

Traditional Rioja is made from a blend of grapes dominated by Tempranillo, Spain's greatest grape. Tempranillo is unusual in that it is low in acidity and the acids that remain after ageing contain a high proportion of lactic acid, giving a soft and milky taste (unlike the harsher tartaric acid). This soft, dairy character is then combined with years—or maybe decades—of ageing in American oak. American oak differs from French in that it imparts more pungent vanilla flavours on the wine, sometimes tasting like coconut. It was this coconut taste that I got fed up with and for many years I avoided Rioja.

Then I came across an old vintage of traditional Rioja made by Lopez de Heredia, the most conservative winemaker in Haro, in the heart of Rioja. The wine was Vina Tondonia 1964 and I was bowled over. The extra age has given the wine a delicate bouquet of flowers, cinnamon, and leather with a silky, voluptuous texture. With better quality grapes, more care in the vineyard and lots of bottle age, the coconut fades into a Burgundian elegance and complexity.

The only problem is that 1964 Tondonia costs £200 a bottle (1964 being the greatest vintage of the 20th century). The good news is that the same style of aged and graceful Rioja can be found in younger vintages at lower prices—Vina Tondonia 1985 is £48 and Bosconia 1999 a mere snip for such quality at £21. So, next time you think you tire of Spain's greatest wine, try some of Lopez de Heredia's. It may confuse you.

Jamie Hutchinson is the founder of The Sampler, a unique fine wine merchant based in Islington, London where customers can try 80 wines in the shop before buying.