Winter's Ports

Simon Field, wine buyer for Berry Bros & Rudd, has some warming recommendations to get you through the coming cold season

One of the great railway journeys follows the Douro Valley from Porto, up to the terraced vineyards surrounding Pinhão and Régua. From the distinctive hand-painted, ceramic tiles to the magisterial, wine-splattered granite lagares—square, open tanks used for foot-treading—a sensual panorama unfolds. The wine itself brings to mind hot climates, indulgence, and post-prandial tipples in St James’s.
Fortified while still fermenting, and therefore sweet, port can be categorised by its method of ageing. The cask age Tawny is aptly named, as it loses colour more quickly than bottle-matured examples such as Late Bottled Vintage (LBV), Crusted and Vintage. Port’s combination of high alcohol and sweetness presage lengthy ageing. The best—say Dow 70, a Croft 55 or, if one can find it, the Quinta Do Noval Nacional 1931—are drinking beautifully, youthful exuberance replaced by an elegant maturity.

Five winter warmers

Berrys’ St James’s Finest Reserve Port, Quinta de la Rosa, Portugal
£10.95
This exceptional premium ruby port is sourced from the finest fruit, of both red and black varieties; rich and unspeakably delicious.

1999 Berrys’ Own Selection Late Bottled Vintage, Quinta do Noval, Portugal
£12.95
Made in 1999 but bottled unfiltered, this wine has the depth of flavour and richness normally only seen in a far grander and more expensive port.

William Pickering, Finest 20-year-old Tawny, Quinta do Noval, Portugal
£22.95
A mellow Tawny of the highest order, rich and nutty, with dried fruit and spice harmoniously integrated.

1996 Quinta do Vesuvio, Portugal
£35
A fine example suitable for laying down, with a nose redolent of violets and woodsmoke, a palate with firm but unobtrusive tannins and a real elegance that is coming round now.

1977 Dow, Portugal
£79
After almost 30 years in the cellar, this magnificent port is now perfect for current drinking but will last for another 15 years.